It's been a long while since I have been on here. I have a 67 Firebird 326 car with a TH350. 326 is 30 over, 268H comp cam, edelbrock intake w/holley carb. It is the orginal motor but has been built some. Hotchkis front and rear springs, 3:55 gears with auburn locker.
I have the chance to buy a 71 catalina 400 with TH400 tranny. This is bone stock with the 2 barrel. Original owner sold the car because it was wrecked and frame bent. Was told the car had 71000 miles on it and the tranny rebuilt 10,000 miles ago.
Here's my question. I want to build a 400 and I have read the earlier blocks are better to do that. I will use my intake and carb but want to know what cam, Heads, Headers, etc would you use?
Is this motor and trans out of a Catilina a good one to build? And use with my 3:55's
A good parts list would be appreciated. Not a race car but a great weekend car

You'll get several different opinions. But here's mine.

I'd use the '71 481988 block and install a stoker assembly, to make it a 455 or bigger.

But, you ask about a 400 build. So, I'd go with SP L2262F forged pistons, in the correct size for the bore size needed to clean up the cylinders.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Pro-TRW-Po...s-/151751641964

I'd go with at least the RPM 5140 forged rods.

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae5140stockrod-2.html

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24453555-rpm-5140-forged-i-beam-rod-6-625-2-250-pontiac-rj.html

If your budget will allow, I'd upgrade the pistons to the Auto-Tec brand, and the rods to H-beams.

https://shanonsengineering.com/products/auto-tec-small-block-pontiac-400-428-455-flat-top-pistons

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340steelhbeam-2.html

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/eagle-crs6625p3d-h-beam-connecting-rods.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-CRS6625P3D...s-/181856963415

I'd go with 6x-4 heads, for a low compression engine, plenty safe for pump gas. With these heads, I'd go with a small Voodoo cam, such as the 262.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1775

Or, if you want just a bit more compression, you could find some #64 heads. Some will recommend the '72-'75cc big valve heads. If you use those, I'd go with dish pistons to reduce compression. There's no use pushing the limits of compression, for just a little more power. IMO

But, if your budget will stand it, I'd go with 72 or 74cc alum D-port heads. 10.5:1 CR is OK with alum heads. If you'll be doing a lot of cold weather driving, I'd go with the Edelbrock D-ports. If not, I go with KRE D-ports. If you decide on the E-heads, I'd have 'em set up by Butler, with better parts than the box stock from Edelbrock versions.

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24452924-...-dport-290.html

http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20Aluminum%20D-port%20Cylinder%20Heads.htm

You mentioned a parts list. Don't know how detailed you want it. You need a Melling M54DS oil pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Melling-OE-Type-...725.m3641.l6368

https://www.amazon.com/Melling-M54DS-Replacement-Oil-Pump/dp/B000C4PO6E

May as well buy a new oil pump driveshaft. That reminds me. Summit will usually meet or beat any legitimate advertised price on any item they sell. Jegs also has a price match guarantee, for legitimate shipped prices. Many times, either Amazon or Ebay will have the best prices on some parts. So, if you need to save a few bucks, it might be worth searching for the best online price, then seeing if Summit or Jegs will match 'em. That way you can probably buy most of your parts from one place.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-is-54a/overview/year/1970/make/pontiac/model/gto

https://www.amazon.com/Melling-IS54A-Oil-Pump-Driveshaft/dp/B000C4LRR4

You'll need a timing set. You can go with a cheap stock type set, a double solid roller, or a true roller with 9 key slots, for precise cam degreeing. I used the cheap sets in most of the engines I built, then used a Mr. Gasket advance key to advance the cam slightly, to make up for chain stretch, which occurs quickly, with most any type of chain.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...8&ppt=C0141

http://www.jegs.com/i/Cloyes/220/C3007K/10002/-1

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-2112

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6612-b/overview/

Roller tip rockers are nice, and prevent premature valve tip wear.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1...v23caAvzq8P8HAQ

Stock type and length pushrods should be OK, if you stay with a small cam, & don't use 1.65 rockers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6419/overview/

Melling also makes stock replacement pushrods. MPR-105-16

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24453376-...-mpr105-16.html



If you go with at least 9:1 CR, you can use a different cam. Probably something with around 220 @ .050 intake duration, would make a good street cam. I wouldn't go any smaller than a Summit 2801.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2801

There are 2 Crower cams with 221/229 @ .050 duration, and a similar Lunati. Any of these would be good.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/crower-60242-hydraulic-flat-tappet-camshaft.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-6...QKlIaAvGu8P8HAQ

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10510312

Don't see any reason to go any bigger, for a street engine that will be driven MOSTLY under 5000rpm.

Oldschool, you wouldnt go with round ports alum heads??? If not, why?

That's great info. Thank you. I will be printing all these out and go from the info everyone provides. With my 326 I bought the Comp Cam kit. Lifters, springs, timing chain etc. Would you not buy the kit for the build?

"...Oldschool, you wouldnt go with round ports alum heads??? If not, why?..."

No need for round ports. The D-ports will make plenty of power for a street 400. AND, the D-port headers are much cheaper.


"... I bought the Comp Cam kit. Lifters, springs, timing chain etc. Would you not buy the kit for the build?"

You can buy a kit if you'd like. I prefer to buy the cam I want, the lifters I want, and springs that will work correctly with the cam, regardless of what brand each part is.

But, if you prefer to buy it all together, most all the cam grinders will sell you the whole kit, using their products. Just pick out the cam you want, tell 'em the intalled height of the springs, with the heads & valve length you'll be using, and they'll sell you what they think you need.

That brings this to mind. Probably the MOST important thing is to have your machine work done by someone who knows & has experience building Pontiac engines. A Chevy shop can really mess up a Pontiac engine build. I learned the hard, expensive way.

I like the idea of a little extra oil splashed on the cam lobes. So, the Crower Cam Saver lifters might be a good idea. If you want these lifters & a kit, you can order a kit from Crower, with the Cam Saver Lifters and 68404-16 springs(for 1.6 installed height apps). OR, you can buy some other Brand cam, and the Crower lifters and springs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-66056x3-16

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-6...Rhb0aAuh38P8HAQ

The Crower lifters & springs are listed a little cheaper at Jegs. But the links won't work.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crower/258/66056X3-16/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710576158&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-194671897271:pla-177199366631&catargetid=230006180003463839&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsO6-BRDRy8bsxfiV2bkBEiQAF8EzKJ_lSG0exkCxyWVKRVC7bfmf9-Z_xQNasGHqmee1XLgaAoF08P8HAQ

If you want a Comp cam and lifter kit, a CL51-208-4 might work. It has 219/228 duration @ .050 lift.

https://www.amazon.com/COMP-Cams-CL51-208-4-Camshaft-Lifter/dp/B001R9DT92

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-c...UNVwaAuiJ8P8HAQ

Sounds like Oldschool made it easy for you...

He sure did. Great information. Thank you

There's really no need to put aftermarket heads on these engine's unless your building over 500 inches.
Dished pistons are cheap enough now to drop compression down.

Bought the Engine and Trans last night from the guy. It came out of a 71 Catalina. The block is a 481988 and has the TH400. Bone stock, never been apart. Gave him $500 for it. I will be overseas for the next 6 months so now it is time to start shopping and researching for the build. Thanks for all the info. As stated before I would really like to build this for a great weekend cruiser head turner.
If I am way off let me know. Just spit balling. With all the info so far posted up top.
Bore 30 over, 461 Stroker kit, Aluminum heads, long tube headers, Exhaust cut outs, Cam, Aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, HEI distributer, good oil pump, good fuel pump, etc.
With all that I want to do I want to run off pump gas. So if I am way off please advise. All the input is well welcome. Attached is the 400 I bought.
Thank you

You got a great deal there assuming there is no broke rods inside or any cracks. Nice score.

I think you are on track, but it also depends on what CR you are try to go for also. With alum heads you should have no problem going as high as 10.2 or 5 and running 93 pump fuel. But with iron heads you will have to keep the CR down to 9.5 or lower I believe maybe 9.2 to be able to run pump gas. I think Oldschool can tell you for sure.

I've got a recently built 400(406) that does fine on pump gas at a 10.0 compression ratio.

"...Bore 30 over, 461 Stroker kit, Aluminum heads, long tube headers, Exhaust cut outs, Cam, Aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, HEI distributer, good oil pump, good fuel pump, etc. With all that I want to do I want to run off pump gas..."

Will have to let the machine shop determine how much overbore it will take to clean up the cylinders.

And, as said, if you are going with alum heads, 10.5 CR is supposed to be safe with 93 pump gas.

Of all the stuff you bought the block is about all you can use, for the stroker. I suppose you can use the timing cover, if it's good, and maybe the oil pan. If you can get the valley cover cleaned up real good you can use it. Everything inside the block will be replaced with new stuff. If the flexplate is in good shape you can use it.

Since the TH400 is out of a big car, I was wondering if it is a long tail model ? I think most of the big cars, except for '69-up Grand Prix had long tails. To use a long tail in a Bird or A-body will require a shorter driveshaft and different crossmember set-up. The trans mount is located farther back on the tail housing.

But, a long tail can be converted to a short tail. My tranny guy did one for me a few years back. He had all the used parts on the shelf. But, a long tail will work just as good. I raced one in a '68 Bird and another in a '74 Ventura.

Don't know about those exhaust cut outs. Sounds like something that might get you in trouble on the street & won't really help that much on the track. IMO A good 2 1/2" system, with an X-pipe, and low restriction muffs should be all you need. But, I'm not a street racer. So, the cut outs may help more than I think. ??? I suppose it depends on who you ask.

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Exhaust%20Cutout.html

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-t...in-or-loss.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/856012-exhaust-cutout-hp-gains.html

You can Google up lots of opinions on the subject.

First off
What's your budget?

FYI - my built 455 (462) with E-heads runs great on 93 octane gas. I calculated out that the compression ratio was about 10.2 to 1

Great information. The guy I got the Engine and Trans from said its a medium shaft. Not sure. I have been overseas for 6 months and have 6 more to go. My brother in law went and talked to him and picked it up for me. Don't plan on taking it to the track. Building it for a sweet street ride. I have had the car since 2008 and have rebuilt the 326 twice. I have always wanted to build a 400 for it but money was tight. I just retired from the Air Force and tool a contract job overseas so I can afford to build something at this time. I was thinking it will be about $6000 for what I want to do. If I don't do it now then I won't be able to. (Better half) lol
I will keep researching a perfect combo since I have time. Doesn't need to be way over the top but since I have the money right now I just want to do it right and not regret it later.

This rebuild i did came in at $5000 with everything all said and done.
https://firstgenfirebird.org/forums/ubbth...7244#Post307244

[censored], Very nice. I am going to copy and paste that info so I can save it. Thank you

Since you won't have much time, you may wanna consider buying a crate engine.

Len Williams can build you a 455 with 6x heads for about $5000. And he furnishes the block. So, if you buy from him, you can sell your engine, and get your money back. Len is considered a competent Pontiac engine builder. And I haven't found any better prices, for equal quality build.

http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/455_Long_Block.html

Here's his basic 400 block stroker shortblock, for $3500.

http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/455_Short_Block.html

There are all sorts of options. He can build it with alum heads, forged crank, different cams, or most anything you want.

http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/400_Edelbrock_Heads.html

If you go with a stroker, & alum heads, you'll need the larger chamber heads, to keep the compression down.

The biggest KRE chambers are 85cc. These will give you about 10.5:1 CR, or a hair less, with flat top pistons. 10.5 is said to be safe with pump gas, when using alum heads.

http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20Aluminum%20D-port%20Cylinder%20Heads.htm

The E-heads have 87cc chambers.

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24452926-...-dport-290.html

Here's a compression calculator.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

You can't base an engine on price alone