It's been a long while since I have been on here. I have a 67 Firebird 326 car with a TH350. 326 is 30 over, 268H comp cam, edelbrock intake w/holley carb. It is the orginal motor but has been built some. Hotchkis front and rear springs, 3:55 gears with auburn locker. I have the chance to buy a 71 catalina 400 with TH400 tranny. This is bone stock with the 2 barrel. Original owner sold the car because it was wrecked and frame bent. Was told the car had 71000 miles on it and the tranny rebuilt 10,000 miles ago. Here's my question. I want to build a 400 and I have read the earlier blocks are better to do that. I will use my intake and carb but want to know what cam, Heads, Headers, etc would you use? Is this motor and trans out of a Catilina a good one to build? And use with my 3:55's A good parts list would be appreciated. Not a race car but a great weekend car
Or, if you want just a bit more compression, you could find some #64 heads. Some will recommend the '72-'75cc big valve heads. If you use those, I'd go with dish pistons to reduce compression. There's no use pushing the limits of compression, for just a little more power. IMO
But, if your budget will stand it, I'd go with 72 or 74cc alum D-port heads. 10.5:1 CR is OK with alum heads. If you'll be doing a lot of cold weather driving, I'd go with the Edelbrock D-ports. If not, I go with KRE D-ports. If you decide on the E-heads, I'd have 'em set up by Butler, with better parts than the box stock from Edelbrock versions.
May as well buy a new oil pump driveshaft. That reminds me. Summit will usually meet or beat any legitimate advertised price on any item they sell. Jegs also has a price match guarantee, for legitimate shipped prices. Many times, either Amazon or Ebay will have the best prices on some parts. So, if you need to save a few bucks, it might be worth searching for the best online price, then seeing if Summit or Jegs will match 'em. That way you can probably buy most of your parts from one place.
You'll need a timing set. You can go with a cheap stock type set, a double solid roller, or a true roller with 9 key slots, for precise cam degreeing. I used the cheap sets in most of the engines I built, then used a Mr. Gasket advance key to advance the cam slightly, to make up for chain stretch, which occurs quickly, with most any type of chain.
If you go with at least 9:1 CR, you can use a different cam. Probably something with around 220 @ .050 intake duration, would make a good street cam. I wouldn't go any smaller than a Summit 2801.
Or, if you want just a bit more compression, you could find some #64 heads. Some will recommend the '72-'75cc big valve heads. If you use those, I'd go with dish pistons to reduce compression. There's no use pushing the limits of compression, for just a little more power. IMO
But, if your budget will stand it, I'd go with 72 or 74cc alum D-port heads. 10.5:1 CR is OK with alum heads. If you'll be doing a lot of cold weather driving, I'd go with the Edelbrock D-ports. If not, I go with KRE D-ports. If you decide on the E-heads, I'd have 'em set up by Butler, with better parts than the box stock from Edelbrock versions.
You mentioned a parts list. Don't know how detailed you want it. You need a Melling M54DS oil pump, and some decent moly rings. If you go with at least 9:1 CR, you can use a different cam. Probably something with around 220 @ .050 intake duration, would make a good street cam. I wouldn't go any smaller than a Summit 2801.
That's great info. Thank you. I will be printing all these out and go from the info everyone provides. With my 326 I bought the Comp Cam kit. Lifters, springs, timing chain etc. Would you not buy the kit for the build?
"...Oldschool, you wouldnt go with round ports alum heads??? If not, why?..."
No need for round ports. The D-ports will make plenty of power for a street 400. AND, the D-port headers are much cheaper.
"... I bought the Comp Cam kit. Lifters, springs, timing chain etc. Would you not buy the kit for the build?"
You can buy a kit if you'd like. I prefer to buy the cam I want, the lifters I want, and springs that will work correctly with the cam, regardless of what brand each part is.
But, if you prefer to buy it all together, most all the cam grinders will sell you the whole kit, using their products. Just pick out the cam you want, tell 'em the intalled height of the springs, with the heads & valve length you'll be using, and they'll sell you what they think you need.
That brings this to mind. Probably the MOST important thing is to have your machine work done by someone who knows & has experience building Pontiac engines. A Chevy shop can really mess up a Pontiac engine build. I learned the hard, expensive way.
I like the idea of a little extra oil splashed on the cam lobes. So, the Crower Cam Saver lifters might be a good idea. If you want these lifters & a kit, you can order a kit from Crower, with the Cam Saver Lifters and 68404-16 springs(for 1.6 installed height apps). OR, you can buy some other Brand cam, and the Crower lifters and springs.
There's really no need to put aftermarket heads on these engine's unless your building over 500 inches. Dished pistons are cheap enough now to drop compression down.
Bought the Engine and Trans last night from the guy. It came out of a 71 Catalina. The block is a 481988 and has the TH400. Bone stock, never been apart. Gave him $500 for it. I will be overseas for the next 6 months so now it is time to start shopping and researching for the build. Thanks for all the info. As stated before I would really like to build this for a great weekend cruiser head turner. If I am way off let me know. Just spit balling. With all the info so far posted up top. Bore 30 over, 461 Stroker kit, Aluminum heads, long tube headers, Exhaust cut outs, Cam, Aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, HEI distributer, good oil pump, good fuel pump, etc. With all that I want to do I want to run off pump gas. So if I am way off please advise. All the input is well welcome. Attached is the 400 I bought. Thank you
Bought the Engine and Trans last night from the guy. It came out of a 71 Catalina. The block is a 481988 and has the TH400. Bone stock, never been apart. Gave him $500 for it. I will be overseas for the next 6 months so now it is time to start shopping and researching for the build. Thanks for all the info. As stated before I would really like to build this for a great weekend cruiser head turner. If I am way off let me know. Just spit balling. With all the info so far posted up top. Bore 30 over, 461 Stroker kit, Aluminum heads, long tube headers, Exhaust cut outs, Cam, Aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, HEI distributer, good oil pump, good fuel pump, etc. With all that I want to do I want to run off pump gas. So if I am way off please advise. All the input is well welcome. Attached is the 400 I bought. Thank you
I think you are on track, but it also depends on what CR you are try to go for also. With alum heads you should have no problem going as high as 10.2 or 5 and running 93 pump fuel. But with iron heads you will have to keep the CR down to 9.5 or lower I believe maybe 9.2 to be able to run pump gas. I think Oldschool can tell you for sure.
I've got a recently built 400(406) that does fine on pump gas at a 10.0 compression ratio.
1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top, auto 1969 GTO Judge coupe, Carousel Red, manual 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver), Fire Red, white top, auto 1972 Buick GS Stage 1, Royal Blue, black vinyl top, auto
"...Bore 30 over, 461 Stroker kit, Aluminum heads, long tube headers, Exhaust cut outs, Cam, Aluminum intake, 4 barrel carb, HEI distributer, good oil pump, good fuel pump, etc. With all that I want to do I want to run off pump gas..."
Will have to let the machine shop determine how much overbore it will take to clean up the cylinders.
And, as said, if you are going with alum heads, 10.5 CR is supposed to be safe with 93 pump gas.
Of all the stuff you bought the block is about all you can use, for the stroker. I suppose you can use the timing cover, if it's good, and maybe the oil pan. If you can get the valley cover cleaned up real good you can use it. Everything inside the block will be replaced with new stuff. If the flexplate is in good shape you can use it.
Since the TH400 is out of a big car, I was wondering if it is a long tail model ? I think most of the big cars, except for '69-up Grand Prix had long tails. To use a long tail in a Bird or A-body will require a shorter driveshaft and different crossmember set-up. The trans mount is located farther back on the tail housing.
But, a long tail can be converted to a short tail. My tranny guy did one for me a few years back. He had all the used parts on the shelf. But, a long tail will work just as good. I raced one in a '68 Bird and another in a '74 Ventura.
Don't know about those exhaust cut outs. Sounds like something that might get you in trouble on the street & won't really help that much on the track. IMO A good 2 1/2" system, with an X-pipe, and low restriction muffs should be all you need. But, I'm not a street racer. So, the cut outs may help more than I think. ??? I suppose it depends on who you ask.
FYI - my built 455 (462) with E-heads runs great on 93 octane gas. I calculated out that the compression ratio was about 10.2 to 1
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Great information. The guy I got the Engine and Trans from said its a medium shaft. Not sure. I have been overseas for 6 months and have 6 more to go. My brother in law went and talked to him and picked it up for me. Don't plan on taking it to the track. Building it for a sweet street ride. I have had the car since 2008 and have rebuilt the 326 twice. I have always wanted to build a 400 for it but money was tight. I just retired from the Air Force and tool a contract job overseas so I can afford to build something at this time. I was thinking it will be about $6000 for what I want to do. If I don't do it now then I won't be able to. (Better half) lol I will keep researching a perfect combo since I have time. Doesn't need to be way over the top but since I have the money right now I just want to do it right and not regret it later.
Since you won't have much time, you may wanna consider buying a crate engine.
Len Williams can build you a 455 with 6x heads for about $5000. And he furnishes the block. So, if you buy from him, you can sell your engine, and get your money back. Len is considered a competent Pontiac engine builder. And I haven't found any better prices, for equal quality build.
If you go with a stroker, & alum heads, you'll need the larger chamber heads, to keep the compression down.
The biggest KRE chambers are 85cc. These will give you about 10.5:1 CR, or a hair less, with flat top pistons. 10.5 is said to be safe with pump gas, when using alum heads.
