Finally putting the car back together. After 8 years on the rotisserie gathering dust, I just snapped one day pulled it out of the corner and started cutting metal out of it. Been at it non stop every night for 8 weeks. The vert top frame goes on tonight. Then the doors. Then the front fenders. 67 400 vert. Power top Power windows. I have most of that figured out, Will need to know the connections at the fuse box,,, I've searched a bit and found a few pictures that helped, but and having trouble getting the wire harnesses back where they belong. What is the routing for the tail light harness after it transitions from the rocker panel ? This is a vert so I cant remember if it goes up through the vert top bracket or beside it toward the inboard side? Then which side of the trunk braces? The one trunk brace seems to have a hole for a cable stay and I have a stay thats close, but its really tight if I pull it to attach it. Most of the harness "layed" back in place in the rocker both at the front at the kick panel and back .
Regarding the front light harness (brand new original), I found a picture showing the plastic straps across the left inner fender well. The shop manual seems to show it under the fender...I have my old inner fender wells and there are no holes in them for the harness! Rusted originals, and of course no holes in the new ones... I managed to located the cable stay holes across the core support, but am unsure of the routing and connections right at the horn relay-does it come up from the bottom of the inner fender well or down from the top before it turns around the core support?
Could use some help with firewall hole selection. And I have some loose harnesses I cant identify yet. 2,3, & 4 wire small ones. Will get to those later...
I'll post some pictures if I can get them off my phone.
Thanks! That answered a couple questions. The response is really slow though...I did try it and edge... The resources had some links to other restoration proj sites. That helped alot too. I couldn't find a clear picture of the tail light harness though. I guess it's good where it is. I got the top frame done. Pulled every bolt and cleaned and lubed. Psinted. Installed. Filled with atf. I can lift the top freely so it's not binding at all. It moves really well. I did not over tighten any of the joints...but the pump really labors and won't lift the frame. I have to help it. Really warms cup the switch. Pope the 20 amp fuse on my power supply. So the question is how can I prove if it's the pump or the lift cylinders? The lift cylinders move freely, a couple slight rough spots but I can move them easily with my hand. They suck and blow air from both ports. I even dribbled in some atf on the vice be for install. They both easily blow atf out cycling the lift rod...
Ok well that makes sense. I'll have to Google a air bleed proccedure. I'll try that first. Also, the trunk pan has been replaced. So there are no holes for the pump mount. I have it set in place. I have the pump tank facing the passenger side and the electric motor facing the drivers side. The original ground point seems too far. Makes it tight. Can anyone confirm I have the orientation right? I'll just move the ground. It is too short if I push the pump back far enough for all three points to be level...
Great document. It shows the harness coming in from the passenger side. But my 67 comes in from the drivers side. Im just going to locate to pump the best I can and drill holes for the rubber grommets. I was just trying to make the best decision I can. Stay as close to original as possible. But its oddly difficult to find pictures of the stuff I really need. Man I can find a pictures for Mustang restoration in a second.
That was for your filling and bleeding question. Since the body manual covers multiple GM bodies and makes, differences in details in the figures could be possible.
Yea I got that part. Filling and bleeding. I got all the air out. Struggles horribly. I loosened up the joints to the point its really sloppy. Still wont lift it from fully seated. And when it lifts its uneven. Further reading says thats the cylinders if its uneven and no air bubbles. I had a puddle on the floorboard in the morning. So even with a new seal kit its still leaking. Im going to replace the pump and both cylinders. Much later. Too much expense right now. And figuring out the wiring was most of what I wanted to accomplish. Moving on to better things. Got my paint for the dash and interior trim. Lots to do.
