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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Premium Member
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Premium Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129 |
Hey guys, or gals- I'm about ready to start prepping my doors & need opinions of how to treat the following...
1. For the inside bottom of door, should I use a POR to incapsulate any rust that may be there or is there another procedure that may work better. 2. Three is a small amount of surface rust on outside bottom, media blast or just sand?
There were two coat of paint on the door, the factory Autumn Bronze & some blue color the previous owner applied. I have sanded the door down as far as I see needed & my plan is to spray a coat of epoxy then filler to flatten then sealer, at a later date install & make final body line contour adjustments if required.
Thank you in advance.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,758
FGF Premium Member
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FGF Premium Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,758 |
The door looks good and solid but it does have a lot of paint layers (bronze, green, bronze, blue). Also, it has bondo on there already. You might want to get it blasted and strip everything off the door. Did you wipe done the door with grease and wax remover before sanding? If not, do it now. W & G will not come off with sanding. You will have issues with your paint later if you don't get rid of W & G today..
I had a lot of thick layers of paint to strip down on my trunk. Took forever to sand and I still could not get it completely stripped. I finally got it blasted. Some spray filler was required and that was easy to fix. Now I don't have all that old paint on the trunk to worry about.
If you have no rust then I would leave the inside bottom. Trouble is, if you can't get it clean, then your risk trapping moisture and then your door will rust. You generally don't want to put that type of rust treatment on painted surfaces. From your pics, it does not look like you have any rust issues.
I agree with your procedures for preping sealing, filler etc. you noted above.
Good luck!
Last edited by Gus68; 11/12/18 03:26 PM.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,459
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Professional media blast & sealed. From there you will know where you are at.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Premium Member
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Premium Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129 |
It appears a previous owner replaced the door from a green 69 (shape of the glass), had it painted original autumn bronze, then a color change to blue. I know I should blast the door as I have done with the rest of the car, got to be careful about warping. Think I'll strip it instead, I work on it up in WI. & Its getting to cold up here to do any media blasting. The
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,758
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FGF Premium Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,758 |
Use walnut shells or something mild. Door steel very strong and will resist warping. I tried chemical as well
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Premium Member
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Premium Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129 |
Blasted and sanded door & door shell today, straightened a few dents.
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Joined: May 2008
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1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top, auto 1969 GTO Judge coupe, Carousel Red, manual 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver), Fire Red, white top, auto 1972 Buick GS Stage 1, Royal Blue, black vinyl top, auto
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Premium Member
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Premium Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129 |
Yes sir, I live in NC but work on the FB during my time off from my job in Wisconsin (weekends). Going south Monday be back after Thanksgiving,
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