I have a 1967 Firebird tilt column. My buddy lost control while racing and hit a wall. Thus, the column is collapsed. He took it all apart to try and fix it, then gave up, and gave it to me. I see the chicken wire looking collapsible cage that is indeed collapsed [mast?]. I have a couple of non-tilt columns and I was wondering if I can take that part from one and use it in the tilt column. I know GM likes to keep parts interchangeable as much as it can. I have taken columns apart before but I just need to know if that part is usable before I disassemble a column for nothing. Another option is that I have a 2nd gen tilt column. I read that it will only retrofit a 1969 car? Why? If I transfer the 1968 firewall and dash mounts to the 2nd gen what else is different?

You can buy a brand new Tilt or non tilt column for first gen birds for a decent cost. And the benefit it is brand new and not some worn out 54 year old piece. I have installed many into these cars. Also you can replace the rag joint with a universal joint.

Do you mean the ones from Flaming River or Ididit? They are probably excellent quality but do they look like the 1rst gen part? I also heard they do not collapse like the GM kind. That would be pretty dangerous.

In this day and time why would you worry if a steering column collapses. if you do get into an accident with a firebird most likely there wont be any damage to the firebird. all cars on the road today are plastic.

I used to think that too. But in reality the new cars are designed to protect the driver and passengers at all costs. It is called the 'crumple zone' and it is designed to absorb the impact so no matter what happens to the rest of the car the occupants are protected. These old Firebirds are not as safe as you would think. My daughter in a 1979 Formula had a head-on with a 1990 something Grand Am and the Firebird suffered the worst with her being injured. Collapsible steering columns, seat belts, air bags, padded dash, safety glass windshields, all add up to a better survival rate for collisions. Watch this video. A 'classic' Chevy vs a late model Chevy. Take note of the steering column on the '59. It turns into a lance with the driver the target. When I said the '67 column was collapsed it is because my friend was racing a Camaro, lost control, and hit a bridge abutment. He was flung down under the dash and suffered a broken arm and major bruising. But he survived. The steering column took the blow and did it's job. So if I can fix it I will, or try to get the 2nd gen to work. As I got older and fatter I appreciate a tilt wheel a lot more. 1959 vs 2009

I assembled the steering column to make sure all the parts are there. It works, even the tilt. It looks like I can take the collapsible cage from a standard column and graft it on in place of the collapsed one. That is not the hard part. Once I had it in my big bench vise I spun the steering wheel and saw that it wobbled. I guess when he hit the wall he bent the upper shaft. Rats.

We used to have a 1968 Buick LeSabre. It had a tilt column. I should have saved it because the parts are the same. I still have the 1968 FSM and everything is the identical. [insert pic of me kicking myself in the butt]. So I see that the 1969 and up columns all use a similar upper shaft. But the bearing pre-load threaded nut was replaced with a big spring and a retaining clip. I wonder if that can be back-fitted? The '69 up part is pretty common and cheap. This is worth investigation.

The 1968 Pontiac FSM says don't mess with the upper shaft swivel joint. The 1968 Buick FSM says go ahead and take it apart, so I did. You fish out the pre-load spring, tilt the upper shaft 90°, and lift it off. Then the plastic swivel sphere part just rotates out and comes apart. Amazing. Now I can concentrate on finding an upper shaft to replace the bent one. If I can get one then I will proceed with repairing this tilt column.

After fruitlessly scouring the interwebs for the upper shaft I widened my search. That led me to a Fleabay add for 1967-72 Chevy truck and Blazer tilt column parts. Thinking they may be the same I checked it out,. Comparing the pictures to my parts I concluded they were 90% the same. The important parts were identical like the bearings, races, swivel spheres, and the tilt cup they fit into was the same part number. I took a chance and ordered the upper shaft which came with all the fasteners too. YES!!!! It came today and it is the same! The only difference is the nut that secures the steering wheel is a different thread but since the seller included the right nut, I am covered. I test fitted the shaft to the tilt cup and it fits perfectly. I test fitted a Formula steering wheel and it fits. I figured that GM doesn't change parts if it can help it and I was right. Here are pics of the upper shaft being removed from the lower shaft and the swivel spheres coming apart. Then the Pontiac and Chevy upper shafts side by side. Lastly the new upper shaft inserted into a Formula steering wheel. Now I can proceed with cleaning and restoring this '67-'68 Firebird tilt column.

Here is something you will need to do to work on a 1967-68 tilt column. There is a thin nylock nut that secures and pre-loads the upper bearings. It is pretty far down the upper shaft and requires a special tool to reach it. They call it the 12 sided nut and it needs the Kent-Moore # J-22599 extra deep socket. Good luck finding that tool. The nut flats are 23mm but the deepest 23mm socket I had would not reach it. I decided to just make my own tool. I took a Craftsman 23mm deep socket and cut it just below the ratchet hole. I then took an old broken 24mm HF impact socket and I welded the 23mm part to the end of the 24mm socket. That worked perfectly and I can reach that nut EZPZ. I painted the tool to hide my Frankenstein welds but it works just great.

Now that I have that upper shaft I can continue to repair this tilt column. When my idiot friend tried taking it apart he cut the shifter bowl open. The floor shifted bowl is impossible to find. One place had one NOS for a mere $1000.00! I tested it and it is not magnetic at all so I think it is made of that cheap pot metal. That doesn't weld or braze easily so I am going to try epoxy to make it whole again. We shall see.

The epoxy worked well. Luckily that part of the shifter bowl is not structural. Then I dealt with the collapsible mast. That is the outside part of the column that looks like expanded metal mesh. It is designed to collapse in a crash and it did. We figured that a mast from a standard column may work the same so we cannibalized a parts column. The mesh part was similar, the lower section was identical, but the upper end was different. I decided to leave the lower section with the mesh alone, but cut the mesh at the top. Then graft the tilt top end to the mesh. Not knowing the actual assembled length I left it as long as I could. I can always shorten it but I can't lengthen it. It is very delicate work to weld the mesh ends to the top. They want to just melt immediately. The ones that did I had to reinforce. Here is a pic of how it turned out. The small piece on the left is the standard column top. You can see it is longer and shaped different than the tilt one. The next thing is to assemble it and see if the parts fit properly.

On the 1967 tilt column I dry fitted everything so I can make sure it all is there and works. Because it was disassembled and tossed into a box several things went missing. The lower bearing was shot. But since I used the lower mast end from a 1968 standard column I was able to pirate a lower bearing from the parts column. When you de-grease it the tiny bearings fall right out and get lost so I used the remaining ball bearings from the '67 to fill in the '68 housing. Once I greased it all they are staying put. That was lucky because pre-1969 bearings are scarce as unicorn horns. Then I found out that one of the turn signal screws was missing. There are three long shouldered screws on the standard column, but the tilt column uses two short shouldered screws and one slightly shorter than the others. Of course, that one is missing. I would have just cut down one of the long ones but the threads are different. In fact I still haven't identified the tilt screw threads. I think it is #12 coarse but I am not positive. My Dad was a Depression kid and saved everything. I inherited all his coffee cans full of nuts, bolts, and washers. In there I found several short shouldered screws the correct thread. The shoulder was not fat enough but I found a short sleeve that did the trick. I shortened that screw and it fits perfectly. Thanks Dad. In the pic are the long standard screw, the short tilt screw, and my fabricated screw.

I have a perfect Delco turn signal switch but the connector is for the 1969 and up cars. I found that the 1967-68 cars used the round connector. GM makes an adapter so I grabbed one cheaply on RockAuto. A separate thread is here: Turn signal connector Now I can assemble this thing for good as the signal wires must be inserted first before everything else.

Here is a pic of the repaired floor shifter bowl. I can't believe how rare this part is. I have never even seen a column shifted Firebird yet the column shifted bowl is all that is available. I cleaned it up and epoxied it back together. I used some tongue depressors to space it apart to make up for the thickness of the cut-off wheel that was used to cut it open. Once it was held together I loaded up the inside with a mixture of very thick and 5-minute-cure epoxy. That made a thick gooey mix that I could spread along the inside without it running. When it was hard I sanded it down and smoothed it for primer. You can't even tell it was once cut apart.

Next problem: it looks like there is another difference between the standard and tilt columns. The tilt turn signal switch locates the hazard button in a different spot. Look at the two signal bowls. The short one is the standard and the tall one is the tilt. The signal handle is in the same spot though. The switch I have the hazard is not lining up. I searched and searched and some vendors say the switches are the same and fit all columns. Others say no, they are different. When you look at the pictures they look identical. Hmmmm. Other wise the column is back together and it feels tight and smooth. I took the opportunity to Loctite the 4 screws that come loose and cause the dreaded GM tilt column wobble. Normally I have to do this with the column in the car so this was EZPZ for a change..

So I finally figured out the turn signal switches are different on some cars. The standard column used the Delco switch, and this tilt used the Boyne switch. I got one off Fleabay and I had to tap the hole for the handle as it came un-threaded. It is otherwise a good switch. Now the hazard button is located where it should be. Here is a pic of it all together.

Now that the internals are done I took the upper cover parts and painted them with VHT black wrinkle paint. I used it on the Formula steering wheel too so it all matches. I also bought one of the horn button 1st gen Firebird emblems that Talons24 reproduced. Firebird emblemThis is really a quality item and I bought another just to have. The column looks a lot nicer than I expected. I also used some large diameter shrink wrap to seal it all up. The plastic mast cover is still under it all but I wanted a better, tighter product. The tilt end of the column I used was cut for the steering wheel nut retainer clip GM used on later columns. I am waiting for that to come so I haven't pushed the horn button in place yet. You don't want to mess with that as little as possible. Why do all this you ask? I ordered a re-built tilt column from Firebird Central months ago and their supplier has not been able to locate a core to re-build. These tilt columns are very rare and expensive. That is why I saved this one for so long. The collapsed mast part is unavailable but I don't mind cannibalizing a standard column for that part. Here is a shot of the entire column and then the steering wheel with the 1967-69 Firebird emblem. It is sitting on top, not pushed on yet. I think that emblem just makes this super cool.

I really admire your determination on this project. Looks great!

Thanks. As I said, the one on order is still not coming together. This one is Frankenstein-ed together but functional. I have been searching for a tilt column for about two years now and not finding a single floor shifted model anywhere. Meanwhile, I find lots of overpriced rusty column shifted ones and I have never seen a column shifted Firebird in my entire life. I am glad I hung onto this damaged one for about 40 years. Maybe the average guy would not want to sacrifice a standard column for the mast part. But I needed a tilt so I could use it with my power seat base. I got really spoiled with that set-up in my 1977 TA but I could not use the '77 column.

Would you believe that Firebird Central finally has a ship date for the re-built column. Their supplier did not find any cores at Carlisle, but did get some at a swap meet in Texas. They said I got the last one! Holy cow I knew these were hard to find but I never figured it would be this bad. They even said they may have to stop offering the re-build service since there are so few available. When this comes I can then compare it to the one I rebuilt. I need to know that the total length and dimensions are correct. I have nothing to compare mine too right now. So if you have an original 1967-68 tilt column for the floor shift- TREASURE IT!!!

Unfortunately mine is just a regular no tilt. But since you are the resident expert, I had to replace the hazard/signal switch insinlde the steering column and should have paid more attention taking it apart. Are the turn signal and hazards supposed to be at 3 o'clock and 9? I seem to be working with a 2 and 8 right now. What should they be at?

It should only go one way- with the signal arm and hazard button lined up with the holes in the signal housing. I went and looked at mine and they are at 3 and 9 o'clock. As mentioned above, there are two kinds of switches. What color is yours? White is what the Delco switch usually is [but I have seen black and grey aftermarket ones]. Red is the Boyne switch. There are two sets of holes where the switch mounts, a set for each style. So if the switch is placed in the wrong set of holes it would be orientated wrong. I found this out the hard way too. You want to talk about not paying attention to how it went- mine came dis-assembled in a big cardboard box with parts falling out. I spent a LOT of time with the FSM figuring out how everything went together.

I bet that is it. Mine is the white delco. I will look at it after I slam thus popeyes. Thank you again

Hey buddy, so I assumed you were right but no matter which way I flipped it and rotated it, there is only one way it could go on. So I tried reverse engineering it, instead of building the shaft to the steering wheel I went the opposite way. But look at the pics. Everything seems to be workin, turn signal at 9, hazard at 3, but the slot for horn connection would have to make me turn my steering wheel 90° from center. Please explain, do I have that [censored] upside down?

It looks like it is on correctly. Did you take the column completely apart? If so did you mark the end of the steering shaft and the steering wheel so you could re-assemble them in the right order? Anyway, I think you have a piece missing. Where is the cancelling cam? The cancelling cam slips onto the steering shaft and the bottom rides on the copper button sticking out of the signal switch. Then the spring loaded copper button inside the long plastic shaft on the cam goes into the steering wheel hole. It is meant to rotate with the steering wheel. The cam looks like this:

Not completely apart. Shaft is still in it.i have the canceling cam, just not in the picture. There are 2 grooves for snap rings, see pics below. What is the deepest one supposed to be keeping in? ............scratch everything, I'm an idiot, lol. I was trying g to get the steering wheel hole to line up with the copper tab on the switch. Sheesh.lmao

Hey don't feel bad, this is all new to you. Look in the 1968 FSM, page 9-10. It is an exploded view of the column. I have two standard column shafts. The lower groove is for the bowl centering spring retaining clip. The upper groove is for the thrust and wave washers retaining clip. Above that go the cancelling cam and spring. But since the column is out of the car it would be a good time to remove the steering shaft and check the lower bearing. It is held in by that spring clip at the bottom of the column. But be careful, the ball bearings can fall out easily. There is a spring between the flange and the bearing adapter. It keeps the bearing pre-loaded. Don't force anything as that bearing is totally unobtainable! Remove the bearing adapter, remove the bearing, and clean it. Catch any balls that fall out! Grease the bearing cups and balls so they stay put. If balls fell out to get them back in you need to tilt the bearing cups apart and at one point it will be open just enough to get them back in. Apply grease first so they stay in place. My bearing was missing quite a few balls and I replaced them from a parts column. I'm sure replacements are available like from bicycle bearings just mike them to get the size.

Here is that lower column bearing I was talking about. I miked the last ball I had and it was 3/16". That is a common size. I have a ton of bicycle parts and a jar of small bearings. I scrounged all the 3/16" ones I could and used them to restore that lower bearing. I cleaned the rust and old grease out, re-greased with Marine grade OMC Triple-Guard blue grease. This bearing is a nightmare. It has three parts and they all want to confound you. You have to grab the part that sticks out and moves and hold it with needle nose pliers. That opens the gap enough to squeeze in the new balls. I used a magnet-on-a-stick and loaded it with balls but make sure you don't use too many. Too many will jam up the bearing and it won't turn. Once full you can press the bearing back into the adapter. The pics are the adapter, bearing race, and the balls, then all put back together. That little thing is not available for love or money so it behooves us to just restore what we have.

I sure am glad I chose to re-build this tilt column. I had an order in with Firebird Central for one of their re-built units. Mostly because they said they replaced all the bearings which are impossible to find. After many months they just advised me they cannot fill the order. There are NO cores available. I will have to be satisfied with my re-building job. So if you have a tilt column- treasure it!!!

Fifty-four years ago I would have considered the tilt column about the last option I would like to have had on my '68. Now, I think it would be the most important option missing on mine. Good find.

Thanks Jim. I too can appreciate the tilt feature now more than I did as a youngster. That and a six-way power seat and it is just about as comfortable as it can get. I think the only other column that could be substituted would be the 1969 unit. The overall fit is the same, just the key switch is on the column and it has the steering wheel lock. But when searching I found absolutely none available either. The '69 and up to '81 is basically the same, except the 1970 and later column does not collapse like the 1967-8-9 ones. They used the extension from the column to the steering box for the collapse-able part. I still have to measure mine against my buddy's column to see if I got the length and placements correct.

Been reading the information regarding this tilt column and its great!

I am rebuilding a 68 Tilt Column, this is just the information I was looking for. No one seems to have any info on a tilt column.
Have a couple questions hopefully you can assist with.
What torque did you tighten the nut using the 22599 socket?

He is wanting to use a billet specialties steering wheel. What I found is they (Billet Specialities) do not make a column adaptor for this type of steering shaft that uses a threaded nut for the upper bearing. Sent them photos and they said they could not assist, they never saw a steering shaft with threads.

He had one of their adaptors 31120 but would jam up on the threads for the upper bearing nut.
I had to file down about half of the threads from the shaft so the steering wheel adaptor would fit.

Have a turn signal signal canceling cam button from OER, like the black one pictured in the post. It uses the pin for the horn, and I need to use the wire. This horn button does not have the groove for the horn wire to lock into. What horn button did you use or did you modify the black one for the newer spring wire for the horn button?

Thank for your help!

You are welcome. The 1968 FSM says the torque on the upper bearing 12 sided nut is 15 oz. in. with the shaft centered. Then they say this can be achieved by mounting a steering wheel, attaching an ounce spring scale to a spoke 5" from the center, and obtaining a reading of 3 ounces. Yikes! I have none of those. I have inch and foot pounds torque wrenches, not ounces. What I did was to adjust the bearings by feel, like on bicycle wheel bearings. Some call it the 'Goldilocks' method. Not tight, not loose, but 'just right'. You want it to feel like a normal steering wheel feels. No slop, but no drag. As for the adapter, those upper shaft threads are so deep I see no problem shaving most of them down. I used a Pontiac Formula steering wheel, so the horn parts fit no problem. Luckily, they offered the Formula wheel on the 1969 Trans Am so it had to work with the 1967-69 steering columns and horns. I used to have a Grant steering wheel and it used an adapter for the horn too. Check and see if the Grant parts will work with the Billet wheel. The horn wire would go up through a hollow plastic shaft where the button would normally go.