Does anyone know who repairs the conv't top cylinders? as opposed to having to buy new ones?

My shaft seals are leaking on the cylinders.

They are a 'throw away' item. The cylinder ends are pressed on so they are very time consuming to rebuild. It would cost more to rebuild one than what the new ones cost. Always replace both at the same time.

I believe you can replace the o-ring at the top if they are leaking externally. If leaking internally, it's like Jim said. I bought reproductions which are working fine because my rods were too pitted to use.

My right side is leaking externally. Without having looked at it recently, is the o-ring easily replaced? and what size? I recall the cylinders not being easily removed from the car.

Maybe I am better suited to look at it first, then ask more questions?

Thanks.

You might check with these guys, they are very helpful via email and on the phone, and Know Convertibles! They have just about anything and everything you could want or need. Not that cheap, but then again... verts aren't cheap.

http://www.convertibleparts.com/

Brett - 67 Drop Top 455!

got a set let me know

Thanks for the info, I realize i need to pull the top off to get the cylinders out, is this true?

Also I fixed a broken hose end by buying a brakeline compression fitting for $2 vs. buying a new hose set.

Unfortunately, I still have leaks in the seals, which are allowing air to get in/out of system. What a pain in the blank.

I change them with the top up and locked.

Jim, It appears there are two bolts which hold the piston in place, one on inside and one on outside?

The inside bolt is partially blocked by the opening misalignment, so I am not sure I'll be able to get them out, without removing the whole top?

Once you lock the top and unhook the rod end of the cylinder from the top mech you can then line the bolts up with the holes. Do not take anything off on the top mech or you will be adjusting for hours and hours. I just checked what the repair manual says and I'm right on with them.

Thanks again. I might take one out and take a look at it. I'm trying to avoid this, if you can tell?

Been there! I rebuild hundreds of cylinders a year at work so I thought that I definitely could fix mine with a little work. NOT! They are disposable. Anybody who has tried to rebuild one will tell you the same. Even the repair manual says 'replace' not 'rebuild'. And if you have even one working funny you need two new ones. I would expect anyone who is a 'do it yourselfer' to learn this the hard way! It's our nature.

You would think if it were a leaky seal you could put in some Lucas Transmission stop leak into the lines for a quick fix.Not sure how much pressure the hydraulics would put on the seals.

David

I've been using the ATF stop leak. after refill, I can hear air push out the tops of the cylinders. It's also sucking air in I'm sure.

When it's full it goes up/down no problem, but the interval between full and lot's of air, is getting smaller.

I've been in the sealing business for 17 years, so I thought for sure, the shaft seals are leaking and could easily be replaced. I guess NOT.

Oh well, another couple hundred, it's only money.

I hear that! Just for fun, try disassembling the cylinders. These are really low quality parts. GM was ahead of it's time with this 'modern style' junk.

For sure, top frame up and latched to replace the cylinders. Give yourself a weekend to do this chore. It’s a challenge, but with the right tools, a snort of scotch (just a snort mind you) to help keep the nerves calm and patience’s it can be done.

Tom