Yeah that is my main obstacle too. I have two kids that think I am their private mechanic. On the stand is good. That is how I flushed my 1970 Pontiac 400. It was very grimey, and had poor oil pressure. I had the valley pan off and I could see many lifters were not getting oil. I think it had sat for a long time getting cruddy inside. I used Permatex Carb and Choke cleaner that used to be available in a gallon can. That stuff literally scoured the oil passages spotless. After I was done I had 60 lbs of oil pressure with a new Melling oil pump. All lifters were flowing oil. I can't find the Permatex gallon anymore which is probably a good thing. It stunk like a chemical factory and burned your skin. The #2 oil is slower but much safer. I use it to soak cylinder heads and they come out looking like they were hot-tanked. On the stand you can seal the cooling system with a couple of radiator hoses connected with a section of PVC pipe. Leave the thermostat cover off. Then fill it with water and a dose of CLR or some other rust buster type product. Spin the water pump by hand to agitate it. Let it sit, then flush with a hose. I used the Cascade dishwashing detergent on a very rusty Jeep engine and the insides of the block looked like virgin cast iron. You may find that your freeze plugs are crusty looking. Now would be a great time to replace with new ones. But first, since you are unsure about the condition, why not fill it with cheap oil, prime the oil system with a priming tool, hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and see what kind of oil pressure you have. If good, then you can hook up a starter to crank it and test the compression. If you have good compression then go ahead and clean it up. If not, don't waste your time.