Happy Easter to you too. I had Grandkids crawling all over the backyard searching for Easter Eggs. Instead of an Easter Ham they wanted fish so I made a huge batch of fried Fluke. No leftovers! I spent the Winter replacing all four footwells. The re-pop stuff is OK but a lot of trimming was involved to make it fit. The front sections assume you are doing under the seats but I did not want to mess with those. There are braces under the footwells too so be careful when you cut the old metal out. I had to drill, screw, and clamp the new metal to the braces to get them tight enough to weld together. I just found my whole car wiring harnesses that I stored after stripping the car many moons go. They seem OK and I will re-use them unless I find problems. Wiring a whole harness would be a huge job. Replacing some small sections would be easy though. Painless Wiring makes the whole car harness for about $550. But it is not plug-n-play, you need to finish it off. I have read on this site about the power top switches burning out so I will be making a whole new dedicated harness for the top. I am using relays back by the top pump actuated by the dash switch. I will run 10 gauge wires from the battery back to the relays. This way all the load is on heavy gauge wiring and the dash switch is low load to the relays. I am working on a six-way power seat base so I will do the same. I will wire it separately from the car so the load is on dedicated heavy gauge wires. I like to use stand-alone marine grade waterproof circuit breakers for systems like that. I run a 10 gauge wire off the battery to a high amp maxi-fuse, then to the breaker. These breakers have an on/off switch so I can disable the circuit at will. This is standard practice on boats and works great for cars too.