Yeah, that is the color. I really miss it. And I had the teal deluxe interior with a black vinyl top. Very sharp. So on the points distributor the '+' coil wire from the bulkhead connector is the resistor wire. It is 6 volts so the points last longer. It is energized in the 'START and 'RUN' key position. The purple 'S' wire on the starter solenoid is12 volts to enable the starter when the key is in the 'START' position. But there is a yellow wire from the 'R' solenoid terminal also to the '+' coil terminal so that the points get 12 volts IN START ONLY! That is very important. It makes for easier starting but if left at 12 volts the points would burn out fast. So when the 'S' terminal gets 12 volts from the ignition switch the solenoid is doing two things. It is connecting the big red BATT cable to the starter motor. And it is sending 12 volts to the coil for easier starting. But this is all moot because you are using HEI. So you can keep the purple start wire to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid. The yellow 'R' terminal wire is no longer needed. But the 6 volt resistor wire needs to go. HEI will not work on 6 volts. You can cut the resistor wire right at the bulkhead connector and splice in a heavy gauge wire to the '+' terminal on the HEI cap. You can unpin the resistor wire and re-pin a heavy gauge wire [better]. You can run a dedicated 12 volt heavy gauge ignition wire from the ignition switch to the HEI through the firewall [more better]. You can use the ignition resistor wire to activate a relay that will give 12 volts to the HEI [best]. This way you can rig an anti-theft system using the relay. Just use your imagination to rig a hidden kill switch or combination of things that must be in play for the engine to run. I have a way of locking the hood so no one can get in to jump start the engine. You know where the hood latch pull is? See where it passes close to the support bracket? I drill two holes and padlock the pull to the bracket. EZPZ.