Frequently Asked Questions

Short answer: The 1969 hood-mounted tach was UPC U85 (column code 471), listed “N.A. with 322” — the Trans Am package. So it could be ordered on essentially any 1969 Firebird except the T/A, because the T/A already included it (you didn’t order it separately).

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Short answer: No alternate refrigerant is a true “drop-in” for R-12, regardless of sales claims — each has drawbacks, and many react badly with R-12 mineral oil. At minimum, flush the system, fit a compatible dryer, use a compatible oil, and use the correct charging fittings.

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Short answer: That small coffee-can-shaped canister mounted to the firewall under the driver’s-side fender is the A/C reserve vacuum tank.

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Short answer: The canister with the vacuum hose is the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system’s actuators (it stores extra vacuum for the controls); the stray wire/plug is the radio antenna lead.

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Short answer: No true Ram Air car ever got factory A/C — that means 1967–68 Ram Air I, 1968 Ram Air II, and 1969 Ram Air IV cars. But a 1969 400 H.O. (“Ram Air III”) could get A/C with any transmission.

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Short answer: Before tearing into it, find the leak — a shop recharge may be cheaper than you expect. If converting to 134a, a NAPA-type kit (new O-rings + Ester oil) handles it: drain the old oil via the plug on the bottom of the compressor and add new, lube all new O-rings, replace the receiver-dryer, and flush the evaporator/condenser to remove incompatible old oil.

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Short answer: You don’t need a newer compressor — rebuilt GM A-6 compressors use seals/oil compatible with R-12 or 134a (confirm it’s freshly rebuilt). For a proper 134a conversion: use a kit to replace the O-rings, switch the whole system to Ester (not PAG) oil, change to a 134a-type dryer, and flush every component (compressed air + denatured alcohol, each part separately) to remove all old R-12 oil.

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Short answer: Doable — figure roughly $1,000 and a weekend. The popular choice is a Vintage Air kit (R134a-compatible, more compact and efficient than the factory system, and most of it hides inside the car — which also makes spark-plug changes far easier than on a factory-A/C car).

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Short answer: Use a trunk-mounted CD changer that plays through the dash FM radio — tune the radio to a set frequency (e.g., 89.1) to hear the CDs, and control the changer with a remote you mount discreetly. That way you keep a stock-looking radio in the dash.

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Short answer: You can upgrade sound with little or no cutting. The no-holes route: a vintage Audiovox AM-FM converter that fits inside the ashtray, wired to the back of the factory AM radio — open the ashtray to change bands/stations. Period-correct, cheap, and fully reversible.

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Short answer: In 1969 (unlike the 1968’s plug-in multiplex), stereo used a separate radio, and the AM/FM Stereo needs its matched external multiplex (MPX) unit to work; the plain AM and AM/FM radios work standalone (power + speaker only).

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Short answer: The 3-tab connector on the back of a 1967 radio, reading left to right, is: speaker, speaker, +12V.

     +------------+
     | --  --  -- |
     +------------+
       ^   ^   ^
       |   |   +----- +12V
       |   +--------- Speaker
       +------------- Speaker

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Short answer: Yes — the factory AM/FM radio came with a “shorting plug” in an auxiliary socket; the dealer removed it when installing the FM multiplex (stereo) adapter. The plug has a vacuum-tube-style pin layout carrying the volume, balance, and tone controls.

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Short answer: Per the 1967 Firebird Service Manual supplement, the antenna should lean inboard about 4° when viewed from the front or rear, and stand vertical when viewed from the side.

This spec is given for both the front and rear fender mounts, and the 1968 is believed to be the same.

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All of these antenna parts are interchangeable across 1967–68 Firebirds. The mast itself (3934224) is the same for both the front-fender and rear-quarter mounts — what differs is the trim bezel, the ground ring, and the lead-in cable. The body, mounting nut, and mast are common to both positions.

Short answer: The antenna body and large mounting nut are the same between the 1968 Firebird and Camaro front-fender antenna. Members differ on the mast and bezel — see below.

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Short answer: The standard antenna location on a 1968 Firebird is the right-hand front fender. An optional right-hand rear-quarter antenna was also available. Which one your car came with is recorded on its Body Broadcast Sheet (if still in the car) or its Billing History. Reproduction parts are available for both.

There is no single “factory-correct” position for the rear-quarter hole — four original Firebirds measured no two exactly alike, because the assembly line stamped the hole using a hand-placed template rather than a machine. The figures below, gathered and cross-checked by members, get you as close as the factory did.

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Short answer: The 1968 Firebird used a telescoping (manual) mast, not a whip antenna — regardless of whether the car had an AM or AM/FM radio. GM did not use whip antennas on the 1968 (or other 1960s models); they were all telescoping until the 1970s.

The main variation is in the ball/tip design — some tips have one groove, some two, some none; some are round, some oval.

For a replacement, a good NOS mast is usually the better route, since rechroming an original is difficult and costly.

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Short answer: The standard antenna on all 1967–69 Firebirds (with the radio option) was a manual mast on the right-hand front fender.

A manual rear quarter-panel antenna (right-hand side) was optional on 1967–68 only. Late in 1969, an optional power antenna became available, also on the right rear quarter panel.

The manual rear antenna was not offered on the 1969 Firebird, at least not in any known documentation.

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Short answer: Yes — all 1968–72 GM A-body cars (Chevelle, GTO/LeMans, Cutlass, Monte Carlo, Skylark, etc.) use the same armrest pad and base as the 1968–69 Firebird/Camaro standard interior, and the inside door handles are the same. They turn up at wreckers in all colors.

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Short answer: The Year One / Ames repro ashtrays fit correctly but aren’t exact — 1967–68 rear ashtrays had ribbed covers, and the reproduction covers don’t have the ridges.

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Short answer: The assist handle over the glovebox came on Custom Interior Firebirds (those cars also got the instrument-panel emblem on the glovebox door). Headrests were an option on the 1968 (code 572).

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Short answer: The bird emblem on the glovebox door came with the Custom Trim option (there’s no separate sales code for just the emblem), and all 1967s had it. Some standard-trim early 1968s also have it — there’s no firm rule on why.

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Short answer: Burlwood trim was used on all 1968–69 consoles, all 1968 dash center plates, and the 1969 Custom-trim dash only. So a 1969 Standard-trim car with a console has a burlwood console but a non-wood dash.

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Short answer: The one-piece ACC-style kits fit well — often better than the original. Position the carpet over the high-beam switch first and the rest pretty much falls into place.

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Short answer: The chrome louvered “pancake” air cleaner was stock on 1967 Firebird 400s without A.I.R. (it was also used on Corvettes). California 400s, which came with the A.I.R. emissions system, used a traditional closed-snorkel air cleaner with a chrome top instead. Either way the car also had chrome valve covers, breather, and master-cylinder cover.

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Short answer: Unsnap the wire from the back (it just snaps on), then unscrew the housing from the backside.

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Short answer: You can buy replacement lenses, or restore yours: wet-sand lightly with very fine paper (1500–2000 grit, higher is better) using warm soapy water, then polish with a plastic/lens polish (Mother’s works). They’ll look bad right after sanding, but the polish brings them back clear like new. Repeat a few times per lens.

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Short answer: Yes — you can service these points-type clocks yourself and get the original tick back.

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Short answer: You can often fix one yourself — redress the contact points and put a little light oil on the gears. If not, several shops repair them or convert them to quartz.

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Short answer: The three wires: orange = constant +12V; black (with the clip) = ground; gray = the light.

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Short answer: Here’s the collected (and still partly unverified) information on the 1967–68 Firebird clock option — corrections from documented original cars are welcome.

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Short answer: On 1969 Firebirds, the electric clock (sales code 474) went in the upper-right rectangular pod.

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Short answer: For a 1968 Parchment Custom Interior: the carpet should be black, the kick panels black, and the U-shaped door-jamb strip parchment.

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Short answer: The console clock cases were all black.

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Short answer: Flip the console over — the plastic already has cast-in holes (with reinforcement) on the underside where the clock screws go.

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Short answer: The 1967 console top had a satin-black “camera-case grain” finish. For 1968–69, Pontiac added a burled-walnut metal applique (with matching door and rear covers) and eliminated the rear ashtray and light.

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Short answer: The factory manual just says “remove the console,” so here’s the real procedure members use:

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Short answer: Only the 1967 Camaro console is the same as the “standard” console used in 1967–69 Firebirds. The shift-plate insert can be changed to suit either an automatic or a manual transmission.

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Short answer: Yes — shoulder belts were available in first-gen convertibles; the 1969 Fisher Body Manual shows front and rear installation. The front belt’s outer strap anchored near the convertible-top pivot (coming through the box around the top mounts); the rear belt’s outer strap mounted in the trunk at one of the cocktail-shaker bolts.

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Short answer: Both a chrome and a black 1968 convertible-top switch are correct — owners who’ve had their cars since new confirm both (chrome on some, black on early-1968 cars). There’s no outside bezel; the factory hole was often cut sloppily.

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Short answer: 1968 interior paint breaks down by sheen:

[pdfjs-viewer url=/dtb/docs/68-I-12.pdf viewer_height=800px fullscreen=true download=false print=true]

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Short answer: Firebird rear seats are the same width in coupe and convertible — both had rear armrests. (The “convertible seats are narrower” idea comes from Camaros, where the coupe had no rear armrests and a wider seat, except fold-down-equipped cars.) Bottom line: if the car has rear armrests, the seat is the correct Firebird width for either body style.

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Short answer: The correct directional/cruise lever-and-switch assembly is part #6465256 for 1968–70 (with cruise control), and #6455211 for 1967. The cruise lever is parts group 3.887 (the standard lever is group 2.897).

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Short answer: No — Custom interior did not automatically include custom seat belts. Belts were a separate option from the interior (as were shoulder belts). Members have Custom-interior cars with standard belts and Standard-interior cars with deluxe belts.

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim Option is code 554, and the trim-tag style number tells you what your car has. Note that the Custom Trim Option (554) and the Custom/Deluxe interior are separate — you can have the option with standard interior.

Any of these items could be ordered individually on a standard-interior car (22437/22467) — except the deluxe interior itself, which defines 22637/22667.

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim option (554) included: Custom seat covers (Morrokide + stitched knit vinyl), custom molded door and quarter trim panels, the assist bar above the glovebox, dual horns, deluxe wheel covers, deluxe steering wheel, custom pedal trim, front & rear wheel-opening moldings, drip-rail moldings (coupes), and windshield-pillar garnish moldings.

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Short answer: Deluxe (Custom) vs. Standard belt buckles:

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Short answer: The walnut knob was a 1968 factory or dealer option. Only the GTO used the unique “GTO crest” knob; everything else, Firebird included, used the “Pontiac Motor Division” knob with the shift-pattern design.

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Short answer: The part numbers: 984700 = 1968 Firebird/full-size 4-speed Custom Walnut knob; 9794300 = 1969 all 4-speed. This was a factory/dealer option for all Pontiacs, with a unique smaller GTO-crest version used on the GTO (’65–68).

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Short answer: For 1968 Firebirds the instrument panel was painted to match the interior color (not the body color). Find your trim number on the body tag and match it to the chart below.

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Short answer: Replacing the cowl/dash panel is one of the easier sheet-metal jobs — if the windshield and front clip are out of the way (none of the seams show). The old panel is spot-welded under the dash pad and along the front under the cowl, brazed at the front corners, with a small weld on each “A” pillar.

Tips: Do the areas that don’t show first (floors, trunk, cowl), then the outside — less heartbreak if you slip. If a body shop does rust repair under the windshield, tell them the area ~1″ forward of the angled bend (near the VIN) needs a clean finish too — shops often assume it’s hidden.

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Short answer: You can order a wiring diagram (which covers the dash printed circuit board) from Classic Industries or most other restoration catalogs — about $7 for a ~20-page set.

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Short answer: Besides the ~8 perimeter screws, the pad is held by nuts on studs molded into it, hidden underneath in the middle — reach them through the radio opening (you’ll need to remove a few accessories first).

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Bulletin 68-I-13 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 1A, dated October 31, 1967. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Revised Procedure for Evaporator Core Removal — 1967–1968 Pontiac, 1968 Tempest, 1967–1968 Firebird 6-Cyl.

Short answer: An improved removal method for the evaporator core or left case half is described below; the flat-rate times in this bulletin supersede those in the 1967 Flat Rate Manual and the new Warranty & Flat Rate Manual immediately.

Bulletin 68-I-35 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 2, dated January 31, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Soiled or Stained Seat Belts.

Short answer: Clean soiled or stained seat belts only with a mild soap and lukewarm water solution — volatile cleaners and redyeing both weaken the belt fiber and must not be used.

Bulletin 68-I-36 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 1A, dated January 31, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Operating Instructions for 1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning System.

Short answer: Owners and service personnel should understand the two rotary switches and six mode buttons of the 1968 Pontiac Custom A/C system; the Freon compressor operates automatically above freezing in any mode except VENT, and each button directs airflow differently.

There appears to be some lack of understanding as to proper operation of the new 1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning system. Owners’ acceptance of this new and flexible system will be much greater if they are instructed as to its proper operation at the time of new car delivery or when cars are in for service.

The control panel should be used as follows: Set the two rotary switches on the left and right side of the control to the desired blower speed and air temperature, respectively. With the SYSTEM button in the OFF position, depress any one of the other five buttons (INSIDE, A/C, BI-LEVEL, HEATER, or DE-ICE). The system will now operate in the mode and at the temperature and blower speed selected. If ambient temperature is above freezing, the Freon compressor will also automatically operate to minimize potential fogging. If it is desired not to operate the Freon compressor, it can be shut off by merely depressing the SYSTEM button to the first detent stop, at which time VENT will appear in the left window. If any other button except SYSTEM is then depressed, the Freon compressor will again operate (temperature above freezing) until the SYSTEM button is once again depressed to VENT. An ambient switch prevents Freon compressor operation whenever the temperature is below freezing.

Air flow from the various outlets in the system is controlled by the mode buttons, in order of occurrence on the panel:

Bulletin 68-I-47 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 5, dated February 28, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Complaints of Low Brake Pedal.

Short answer: Many low brake pedal complaints on power-brake-equipped vehicles are psychological in nature — the depressed floor area directly below the pedal is a design feature. Pedal height should be measured as described below; pedal height must not be adjusted, and if it does not meet specification, a full brake system inspection per the 1968 Pontiac Service Manual is required.

Bulletin 68-I-59 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 2, dated April 18, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Positioning of Inside Rear View Mirror — All Series.

Short answer: The 1968 mirror support has two ball sockets — one behind the mirror and one at the upper end of the bracket — allowing the entire assembly to swing fore, aft, and sideways. Many owners are unaware of this feature; dealers should inform customers who have difficulty positioning their mirror.

Bulletin 68-I-77 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 9, dated June 7, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: 1967–68 Turn Signal Switch Requires Positive Action.

Short answer: High effort to actuate the turn signal switch is a design feature required to provide positive engagement for both the lane-change and full-turn positions; no warranty claims should be submitted for switch replacement due to this condition.

Short answer: Those bullet-shaped plastic inserts (which hold the metal door-panel clips in the door) are hard to find — parts counters stock the metal clip but not the insert.

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Short answer: The only difference between 1968 and 1969 door panels is the door-lock-knob hole location — 1968 has it near the rear of the door; 1969 moved it about 9–10″ forward (a GM-wide change so drivers didn’t have to reach behind themselves). New Custom-trim panels are identical until that hole is punched.

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Short answer: A clean way to add a dual-gate to a Firebird automatic is to use a Hurst dual-gate from an Oldsmobile 442 — it’s the exact same size and form as the Firebird shifter (even the mounting holes match), and the console fits smoothly over it. The 442 unit has a bent stick (sits closer to the driver) and a more positive lock on the manual side than the straight-stick GTO version.

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Short answer: Reference photos of the factory A/C kick panels and factory kick-panel speakers:

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Short answer: Factory radio part/model numbers:

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Short answer: Collected walnut shift-knob part numbers (further verification welcome):

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Short answer: Factory literature says A/C (order #582) was not offered with a manual transmission on the 1968 Firebird — the A/C sales brochure lists it only with automatic, and the service manual’s radiator/rear-axle usage charts show no A/C for M/T V8s. Multiple original owners report being denied the combination when ordering.

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Short answer: Per Jim Mattison (PHS), the correct gloss level on the firewall area is 85% black.

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Short answer: You do not need to remove the dash to replace the firewall padding. You just have to remove everything bolted through the padding into the firewall — mainly the air/heater box and the steering column.

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Short answer: On 1968s, only the coupe has the flow-through vents in the quarter panel at the door jamb — convertibles do not. In 1969, both body styles got them.

This flow-through ventilation replaced the wing (vent) windows. Convertibles did not need it — they leak enough air on their own.

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Short answer: Dimensions for the rear folding-seat channel (which holds the cardboard insert behind the seat), for converting a regular seat to folding:

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Short answer: The fold-down seat bottom is the same as the fixed seat. The top portion has no real cushion to redo — just some cotton and burlap over the springs.

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Short answer: The two refrigerants themselves are compatible, but the oil is the problem — R-134a isn’t compatible with R-12 mineral oil (the oil must dissolve in the refrigerant to circulate and lubricate). So “just top off a low R-12 system with 134a” is not the right fix.

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Short answer: Test the gauge by grounding the brown sender wire at the trunk connector — the gauge should swing to empty. Test the sender with a meter on ohms from the trunk connector (red lead to the brown/sender wire going to the tank, black to a good body ground); bump the car and watch it change — roughly 90 ohms full, ~1 ohm empty.

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Short answer: The gauge swinging to empty when you switch on the lights is the classic bad-ground symptom. Check the grounds first: one is at the sender on the tank, the other near the filler neck (a large sheet-metal screw into the trunk floor). Quick test — run a jumper from a known good ground and touch the metal gauge-cluster housing; if the trouble clears, it’s the ground.

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Short answer: No — 1967 Firebirds only came with the 120 MPH speedo (even with the optional Rally Gauge cluster). 1968–69 used the 160 MPH speedo.

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Short answer: On a 1967–68, converting from idiot lights to a Rally gauge cluster is not a simple pin swap. You can get the oil and water gauges to read fairly easily, but making the ammeter work requires reworking the harnesses all the way back to the voltage regulator — the Rally setup has extra wires the idiot-light cars don’t.

Realistically you either re-pin and add wiring to the bulkhead connector, forward-lamp harness, and dash harness, or buy the correct harnesses. (1969 is far easier.)

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Short answer: Externally the same, but internally different. The 1967 (and probably 1968) latch uses a little hook; the 1969 uses a cylinder with a small latch that pops in and out. The 1969 also has three circles (like cup bases) on the inside where the 1967 has two.

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Short answer: Skip the metal objects — use a flexible laminated plastic card (an ID card from your wallet) to slip the jammed latch open without scraping or breaking it.

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Short answer: Yes, you need a center bow — it’s shorter than the others and does not hook into the side roof rail. The pointed barbs hold the center bow and headliner in place and give your starting point; the bow threads through the center pocket of the new liner. Installation is impossible without it.

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Short answer: Headrests were optional on 1967 (code AS2) and 1968 (code 571). For 1969 they became government-mandated — in two styles, straight (early, same as 1967–68) and curved (later).

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Short answer: Headrests (head restraints) were an option — here’s how they show up across the documentation (note the sources don’t fully agree on the code):

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Short answer: The seat frames are the same for 1967, 1968, and 1969 — the difference is the padding (1969 is slightly wider). So for a 1968-correct headrest seat, use a 1969 headrest seat with 1968 padding and seat covers.

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Short answer: For a non-A/C (cable, not vacuum) 1969, there are three color-coded cables at the controller:

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Short answer: One member’s take: the hood tach isn’t very accurate, is hard to read, and lacks the dampener circuitry good tachs have — so you can’t reliably tell, say, 5000 from 5200 rpm.

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Short answer: The hood tach was mostly factory-installed (though dealers and owners fitted them too). The factory used a punch operation in a known location and added rivets plus nuts for security — so for a correct install, get the dimensions from a factory hood that has one. Today’s reproduction tachs work better than originals (circuits, lighting) but have a slightly “fuzzy”-looking plastic face.

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Short answer: To place an aftermarket hood tach (all references as if sitting in the driver’s seat — “right” = toward hood center, “front” = toward the bumper):

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Short answer: Yes — the hole size, mounting holes, and location differ between the 1967 (tall-style) tach and the 1968–69 (short-style) tach.

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Short answer: Two well-regarded hood-tach rebuilders:

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Short answer: A black cap with a red Aztec-style Firebird in the center sounds exactly like the 1968 Deluxe 3-spoke wheel’s center cover (not actually a “horn cap” — it covers the wheel nut, while each spoke has a thin rectangular horn button in satin-finish metal). These crack persistently around the hub, even NOS ones.

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Short answer: The original 1969 shifter was a Hurst Competition Plus — and says so on the body. Tells: the chrome handle is round except for a flat spot on each side stamped “Hurst,” and it slips into the top of the shifter arm (held by spring clips — release by slipping two feeler blades down the sides and pulling up).

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Short answer: Use an original (PMD) Competition Plus shifter and it fits the console without problems. The only functional difference from the aftermarket version is that the factory linkage rods use rubber bushings and are smaller diameter.

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Short answer: The 1967 console shell is the same for automatic or manual — only the shift bezel/plate is transmission-specific. So swap your automatic bezel for the 1967 4-speed bezel (repro available), add the stock boot and retainer plate, and a Hurst Competition Plus shifter works with or without the console.

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Short answer: The optional clock mounted on the console, ahead of the shifter — the correct opening is somewhat oblong with two mounting holes (a large round hole means a previous owner butchered it). If your build sheet calls for gauges and a clock, look for a console clock (Hemmings, Ames; working ones can be pricey).

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Short answer: With the key, it’s easy: insert the key, put a needle/paper clip in the pinhole, go to the Accessory position, then turn counterclockwise and the cylinder comes out.

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Short answer: Turn the key to the Accessory position, insert a stiff wire or paper clip into the small hole by the key slot to depress the spring-loaded retainer, then turn the key a bit farther counterclockwise while pulling — the lock cylinder pops out. You can then unscrew the bezel holding the switch to the dash.

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Short answer: Erratic readings are largely the inaccuracy of the stock sending units, not necessarily a cooling-system fault. (1969 conversions are easier than 1967–68 — no full harness redo.) Factory gauges read poorly even with correct GM senders — a member who pressure-tested six GM oil senders found none read alike.

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Short answer: Converting a non-A/C car to factory A/C is doable but involved — the biggest job is the firewall (the holes differ between A/C and non-A/C), plus a cut for the fresh-air flapper in the passenger-side cowl, and a lot of plumbing. R-12 is gone, so plan on a 134a-capable compressor/dryer.

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Short answer: For 1968, the bumper jack and jack stand are blue (a medium blue, not light blue) — the closest off-the-shelf match is Ford Engine Blue in a Dupli-Color rattle can. The jack handle is gray.

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Short answer: If you have the PHS billing history, it lists the four-digit ignition and trunk key codes — take them to a GM dealer, who can look up the cuts in the key-code book and punch a key. If not, the four-digit codes are stamped on the original door and trunk lock cylinders (the door matches the ignition, the trunk matches the glovebox).

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Short answer: Yes, two keys was normal: the round key worked the trunk and glovebox, and the other key worked the ignition and door locks.

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Short answer: The trick is the right leverage (A/C cars are easier). Procedure:

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Short answer: There’s little room to upgrade in the factory kick-panel location — the cowl brace gets in the way of any magnet larger than the original Delco, and no aftermarket speaker matches that magnet shape.

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Short answer: Yes — members have moved the antenna from the front fender to the rear quarter. The main work is welding in a patch where the old front-fender hole was and painting it; the rear mounting dimensions are documented in the site’s tech section.

The rear-mount antenna was a factory option, so a correct OEM unit is hard to find. A Camaro rear antenna will fit but is slightly different.

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Short answer: A jumpy needle is usually a binding speedo cable that “loads up” and releases. Pull the inner cable from its casing (disconnect one end), coat the cable and sleeve with graphite, and reinstall — a ~$1 fix worth trying before replacing the cable.

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Short answer: Firebirds could never be ordered with the console gauge package — the image you saw is an early-production photo. Camaros offered it because their factory tach sat in the dash cluster; Pontiac put the Firebird’s tach on the hood, leaving room for the other gauges in the right dash pod.

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Short answer: Trim code 260 is “Parchment” in both 1967 and 1968, but the shade differs — 1967 parchment is basic white, while 1968 parchment has a pearl look. The factory trim albums call both “Parchment”; catalog companies rename the 1968 shade “Pearl” to avoid confusion. So your tag reading Parchment is correct.

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Short answer: No — 1968 and 1969 parchment differ in shade. The only way to get all panels to match is to spray them (the more correct term than “dye”). Check the archives for more on parchment spraying.

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Short answer: Correct — a 1968 parchment interior (seats and panels) came with black lower carpet/door trim and black nylon-blend loop-pile carpet, and (per member feedback) black dash, dash pad, visors, and kick panels. So your two-color scheme is original. Source: 1968 Pontiac Trim & Accessory Album and the 1968 Pontiac Sales Album.

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Short answer: Don’t use chemical paint stripper on plastic — it softens the plastic and melts the edges. A mix of xylene and lacquer thinner removes most paint, but apply and wipe it off quickly or it can still damage the plastic.

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Short answer: The correct “PMD” walnut knobs for a 1968 with M/T floor shift:

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Short answer: The optional power antenna for the 1969 Firebird was part #9796289. The drive assembly was the same for coupe or convertible; the mast was unique to the 1969 Firebird (part #546557).

On reproduction masts: the only mast currently reproduced is the one common to the “A” bodies and full-size Pontiacs (original #541963). The Firebird used a shorter mast than the Tempest, Grand Prix, and full-size cars, so a repro may stick out a little more than original when fully retracted — with some modification to the bottom section you can duplicate the original length.

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Short answer: No — a fan motor with a fresh-air slide is the standard heater/vent system. Power-Flo Ventilation was a separate 1969 option (also 1969–70 full-size and mid-size Pontiacs/Buicks): two small blowers in the upper cowl that push air out the lower-corner dash vents even at a standstill.

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Short answer: Power-Flo Ventilation was a 1969-only Firebird option (also on 1969–70 full-size Pontiacs and Buicks) for non-A/C cars, about $15 — two blower assemblies mounted in the cowl that push air through the upper vents.

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Short answer: A small break in a printed circuit board can be repaired by soldering a short piece of bare stranded copper wire across the break. Use very thin rosin-core solder and a small tip on a low-wattage iron, and clean and tin both the wire ends and the foil before joining.

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Short answer: It should be a simple drop-in — on the 1967 (and the 1968 is similar) the AM and AM/FM radios share the same mechanical mountings and the same electrical connections, so the AM/FM goes right in place of the AM.

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Short answer: No — the 1967/68 dash differs from the 1969, and the radios are different in every way. (The 1967 and 1968 radios are virtually identical except face color — 1967 black, 1968 blue.)

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Short answer: Amplifier whine/pop comes from resistance in the power, ground, and signal paths acting as a noise antenna — the cure is clean, isolated power/ground and good shielding (plus quality components).

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Short answer: Firebird radio numbers and ID notes:

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Short answer: Known Firebird radio part numbers (1968 has only a part number; 1969 adds a model number):

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Short answer: Before buying a generic in-dash radio, check how it mounts — the 1967–68 Firebird radio is unusual. It bolts to the dash by two tabs on the front of the radio (one each side); the volume/tuner shafts do not support it (unlike most cars of the era, which use the shafts plus a rear bracket).

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Short answer: You can’t just change the connector pin-out — at best you’d get water temp and oil pressure working, but nothing for the ammeter, whose circuit is completely different from end to end. To do the 1967–68 conversion properly you need: the under-dash main wiring harness with bulkhead connector, the forward lamp harness that mates to it at the bulkhead, and oil/water sending units specific to gauges of that era.

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Short answer: The fold-down rear seat was an option on all 1967–69 Firebirds/Camaros (UPC #604/A67, ~$42.13 in 1968–69). Many components are reproduced (latch, catch, brackets, knobs, carpet, partition); used assemblies run ~$175–350 (get all the parts). Desirable but not actually rare.

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Short answer: The correct 1968 rear-mount antenna mast is a three-section, oval-shaped mast with an oval, grooved tip. There was no separate AM vs. AM/FM antenna for the Firebird — that is a Camaro/Chevy distinction.

Reproduction bases and bezels are available, but there are no known correct reproduction masts. NOS masts for 1967–68 are model-specific and hard to find. (1969 is a different story, with a power mast also available.)

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Short answer: Push the bottom cushion toward the rear of the car ~1–2″ to unhook it from the two floor brackets, then lift the front up and out — that exposes the screws holding the seat back.

With the cushion out, two large screws (through wire loops) release the seat back. (Also shown in the Fisher Body Manual — and look for your build sheet while you’re in there.)

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Short answer: Same color as the rear package tray (black stays black, parchment/white is painted black, red stays red) — and use flat, not semi-gloss.

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Short answer: A single rear speaker goes on the right side. The assembly mounts under the top-storage well, and the grille goes on top so it’s visible through the rear window. Yes — cut a hole in the well cover at least as large as the speaker opening, then attach the grille over it.

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Short answer: No — a mesh package tray with no grilles is not correct for 1967–69 (that’s a 1970-and-up thing); that’s vendors dictating “correct.” Factory rear speakers used the cardboard tray with speaker-shaped openings cut from underneath, covered by GM speaker grilles.

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Short answer: All 1967–69 Firebirds with the single rear-speaker option had it on the right side (coupe or convertible) — never center-mounted. Stereo cars had 4 speakers (2 kick panels + 2 rear).

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Short answer: You can have a glass shop cut new glass, but standard mirror glass loses the day/night (prismatic) effect. Better to find a good day/night mirror to swap in, or have your original mirror re-silvered.

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Short answer: It mounts inside the glovebox — there’s a perforation in the glovebox cardboard that marks the correct spot for the trunk-release button (good reproductions include this perforation too).

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Short answer: Pull the push button off first (wrap it in a rag and use pliers). Under the knob, around the shaft, is a small snap ring — remove it with expanding snap-ring pliers and the knob lifts off.

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Short answer: A horseshoe-shaped wire clip behind the crank locks it to the knurled shaft. Push the door panel in, look behind the crank with a flashlight, hook the clip with a thin stiff tool (a coat hanger bent ~1/4″ at 90° works, or a spring puller), and pull it — the clip pops out and the crank slides straight off.

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Short answer: Details on replacing the dash cluster (including the wiring considerations) are collected in the Interior FAQs — Dash section: FGF Interior FAQ — Dash.

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Short answer: Leather (code 281, Saddle) became available on the 1968 Firebird on June 6, 1968, only with the Custom Trim option and only in that one Saddle color. It’s a very rare option — documented on only a few 1968 Firebirds in the Registry.

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Short answer: The option books generally listed Rally Gauges and the Safeguard “Speed-minder” speedo as not available combined — though a few documented cars (PHS-verified) did come with both, so it happened. To merge the two yourself you’d change the speedo face from the standard style to the rally style (a speedo shop quoted ~$65 and about an hour).

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Short answer: The plastic buckle cover just snaps on — gently pry it off from the sides (pry the rear portion first, not the end where the male latch enters, or you’ll snap a retaining tab). Then you can feed the belt up through the metal bar to make a big loop for cleaning.

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Short answer: Soak and scrub the belts, then sun-dry them:

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Short answer: The Fisher Coach emblem was last used on 1967 belts. For 1968 (and later), the latch button reads “GM Mark of Excellence.” So a Fisher Coach emblem is correct for a 1967, not a 1968.

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Short answer: 1968 and 1969 belts are the same except the date stamp on the white manufacture label at the belt end (only matters for 100% originality). Note 1969 coupes used shoulder belts with extra buckles on the tunnel side.

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Short answer: Not the same. 1967 used the same seats (dielectrically molded panels with 1″ ribs) for both Standard and Custom trim. For 1968–69, Custom trim used knit-weave vinyl, while 1968 Standard reused the 1967-style molded seats; 1969 Standard used the molded panels but with wider side bolsters.

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Short answer: The seat-mount pedestal is two spot-welded pieces (an outer pedestal and a smaller inner brace, which also welds to the floor) — remove them separately, since you can’t reach the inner brace’s welds with the big piece on.

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Short answer: Firebird seat belts are the same coupe or convertible — the only difference is Standard vs. Custom (plastic vs. die-cast latch cover).

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Short answer: No 1968s are known to have left the factory with the white 4-speed knob — possibly an early carry-over using leftover 1967 stock. Even very early 1968s are seen with the black knob, never white.

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Short answer: The correct 1969 console shifter has a brown woodgrain knob with a black push button (the bird emblem is on the end). When released, the button sticks up about 1/4″ above the knob.

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Short answer: A member produced an actual-size template for the 1968 4-speed shifter hole (for a column-to-floor conversion). Print it at actual size and follow the notes below.

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Short answer: One member’s photos of an original-style front shoulder-belt install in a 1969 convertible (note: the Fisher Service Manual shows the factory-correct locations — this member used a stronger location he preferred):

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Short answer: It depends on the radio. AM and AM/FM (monaural) came with one dash-center speaker; you could add a single rear-seat speaker (right side in convertibles, hung on the seatback support facing the window, grille in the top-well). AM/FM Stereo or 8-track got the 4-speaker system with kick-panel fronts (convertibles had two rear speakers through the top-well, left and right).

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Short answer: The Speed-minder was an option, and the tach was not part of it — no first-gen F-body had a tach in the dash cluster (that’s what the hood tach was for; Rally gauges gave water temp and oil pressure only).

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Short answer: Pull the cable from the housing, clean the cable with solvent and flush the housing (brake cleaner), then re-grease the cable with white assembly grease (or a good graphite lube) as you slide it back in. That stops the minor needle jumping.

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Short answer: There are three ways to recalibrate, and they work well together.

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Short answer: A speedo that reads off after a rear-end swap or a tire-size change usually just needs the correct speedo driven gear (the colored plastic gear on the cable at the transmission) to match the new ratio/tire size. It’s an easy, ~$8 part at a GM dealer (Classic Industries sells them too — give your trans type and rear ratio), or a shop can recalibrate. If originality matters, fitting reproduction original-size tires is the other route.

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Short answer: That extra white needle (with the under-dash reset knob) is the Speed-minder — a rare option. You set the maximum speed you want; when the speedo needle reaches the speed-minder needle, a buzzer sounds from the dash (on some cars only with the lights on).

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Short answer: The wheel has nothing to do with the column — tilt vs. standard makes no difference. A 1969 wheel will physically fit a 1968 (just won’t be correct); wheels interchange physically across many years.

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Short answer: The cracking wheel with the “Bird” horn button is the Deluxe (colored) wheel; the simulated-woodgrain plastic one is the Custom Sport wheel. Nearly all the plastic wheels crack/split over time (the plastic shrinks) — the wood wheels crack less, but mint/NOS ones command big money (NOS Deluxe wheels ~$500 each).

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Short answer: Yes, these wheels are prone to cracking (the Custom/wood ones survive better than the Deluxe or Standard). You can repair cracks yourself for under ~$20 with PC-11 epoxy (Eastwood sells a kit) plus patience sanding/filling/painting — resto shops charge $100–400. Matching the woodgrain tint is the hardest part (even pros don’t always nail it).

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Short answer: The 1967 and 1968 steering wheels are completely different. The 1967 standard wheel is a solid-color 3-spoke with brushed-aluminum spoke caps and a brushed center cap with a turquoise Pontiac-V emblem; the 1967 Deluxe is similar but with a clear-plastic upper half (and is smaller and a bit thicker than the standard wheel). For 1968 the spokes got wider, the horn buttons went from brushed aluminum to color-keyed plastic, and the center cap changed to the early Firebird emblem.

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Short answer: A 1967 Rally Gauge cluster is NOT a drop-in for the idiot-light cluster — the connector pin-out is completely different, and the volt (ALT) gauge needs two heavier wires the idiot-light harness doesn’t have. You can re-pin the existing connector and add wiring (Option II below), or replace both harnesses (Option I). You’ll also need gauge-type oil-pressure and coolant-temperature sending units. Budget a full weekend. (Verified using two bone-stock 1967 Firebirds; originally by Tony, converted by Al.)

Stock (idiot-light) cluster — 12-pin connector (pin numbers are molded into the connector; ordering is 1–6 top row, 12–7 bottom row):

The TEMP, OIL, GEN, and BRAKE wires connect under the hood through two 10-pin firewall connectors (just below/right of the brake master cylinder — facing the firewall, left = Engine Harness, right = Forward Lamp Harness):

Engine Harness        Forward Lamp Harness
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   | * | Dark Tan    |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   |   |             |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
| * |   | Dark Green  |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
| * |   | Dark Blue   |   | * | Brown
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   |   |             |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+

• Dark Tan to the brake master-cylinder pressure switch (BRAKE light on low pressure).
• Dark Green to the coolant temperature switch (TEMP light above ~210°).
• Dark Blue to the oil pressure switch (OIL light on low pressure).
• Brown to the voltage regulator (GEN light on low output).

Rally Gauge cluster — 12-pin connector (same connector body, different pin-out):

Firewall connector positions/colors for the Rally cluster:

Engine Harness        Forward Lamp Harness
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   | * | Dark Tan    |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   |   |             |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
| * |   | Dark Green  |   |   |
+---+---+             +---+---+
| * |   | Dark Blue   |   | * | Brown
+---+---+             +---+---+
|   |   |             | * | * | Black (L) / Black-White stripe (R)
+---+---+             +---+---+

The BLACK and BLACK-with-WHITE-stripe wires feed the ALT gauge and are a heavier gauge (higher current). The Black/White-stripe wire ties via a fuse link to the power-distribution splice near the voltage regulator and lands on the cluster’s White wire (pin 11); the Black wire ties via a fuse link to the junction block by the battery and lands on the cluster’s Black wire (pin 12).

Sending units needed (gauge-type):

Option I — Replace the harnesses (easiest, costly): Classic Industries and Year One sell “for Rally Gauge cluster” harnesses. Replace both the Forward Lamp harness (~$199) and the Instrument Panel harness (~$399). No rewiring — just remove the old and fit the new.

Option II — Modify existing harnesses (affordable). The Rally cluster needs three wires the stock one lacks (a Black, a White, and a second Gray) and does not use the Brown (generator) wire. Steps:

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Short answer: Yes. 1967 automatics (including the 400) used a T-handle with the button inside the T. 1968 automatics used a T-handle with a button that wraps around the top and sides. For 1969, THM-equipped cars switched to a simulated-walnut round knob (button on top), and a T-handle was used only on the 2-speed automatic.

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Short answer: A temp gauge that jumps/pegs on start-up and then reads cold is usually the old idiot-light “test” wire left connected — the wire from the ignition that lit the temp warning light at start. It’s the harness connection with two wires going to one point (often green). Disconnecting it (per the rally-gauge install FAQ) cures the pegging.

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Short answer: Bumper-jack part numbers (sampled from the 1967–73 Firebird parts catalog):

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Short answer: Trunk floors vary in size — the larger (pricier) ones run all the way up the hump between the shock towers, which avoids a weld across the reinforcing ribs on the incline (easier to hide). A “kit” typically includes the trunk floor, floor extension, and two reinforcement ribs (the pieces under the floor above the gas tank), because the factory one-piece floor is too big to fit through the trunk opening.

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Short answer: The trunk used GM spatter (spackle) paint, not a rubberized coating — and it needs a clear coat over it.

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Short answer: A turn signal that won’t self-cancel usually needs the turn-signal switch (cam + harness) inside the column. You don’t have to remove the column, but you do dismantle the top to get the harness plug out — you’ll need a steering-wheel puller and a hub/lock-plate puller.

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Short answer: Fast flashing usually means a heavy-duty flasher is installed (HD flashers are for extra bulbs, e.g., towing) — swap in a regular-duty flasher (e.g., NAPA #552).

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Short answer: Vinyl dye works well on seats too (the ads omit them, but it’s fine), and going from faded parchment to white is easy since you’re not covering a dark color.

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Short answer: Good foam padding and an air hog-ring gun make the job easier (especially one-person). Heat the vinyl first — set it in the sun or tumble it in a dryer (in a pillowcase) for a few minutes, and keep a hair dryer handy for spot-heating.

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Short answer: 1968 and 1969 window cranks are the same, but there are two shaft lengths where the handle attaches — short for Standard trim, longer for Custom trim (to clear the thick padded door panels). The rears are the same Standard or Custom. (1967 fronts may differ.)

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Short answer: At the time of this discussion, there was no truly correct reproduction woodgrain for the 1968–69 console, dash trim, radio face, and ashtray — only options ranging from cheap “contact paper” to die-cut pieces that miss on grain/texture, edge and recess forming, and durable adhesive.

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